What is Chainstitch Embroidery

Below is a Cornely Model A Bonnaz Machine thought to have been produced in 1925. While it may look like some old sewing machine you might have seen in your parents or grandparents house, it's likely quite different.

First of all, these machines use a single thread, fed from underneath (i.e. no bobbin) and pulled up via a hooked needle. The machine iteratively interlocks a series of small loops on top of the fabric to create the attractive chain stitch. 

Most importantly, a chainstitch machine can feed in any direction via a small rotating handle under the table. In this way the operator can create intricate designs by drawing with the thread.

Unlike a modern embroidery machine, there is no computerized control.

Most Americans will be familiar with this type of embroidery from:

•  Chenille patches on vintage letterman jackets, obtained from the same machine by reversing the needle and allowing the stitch to be dropped rather than linked. 
• Monogrammed bowling shirts or uniforms, each having the individual nuances of  that operators unique cursive script.
• The decorated westernware of Nudie Cohn AKA "The Nudie Suit"

What can you chainstitch?

In general, high quality, non-synthetic and non-stretch fabrics work best with this type of embroidery. We are in the business of slow fashion and you want your embroidered piece to last. Pick something nice and it will last!

Good:

• Natural fibers (cotton, linen, etc.)
• Low stretch
• Cotton, linen, denim, etc.

Bad:

• Synthetic fibers
• Stretchy
• Things from Amazon

 

Keep in mind that our machines are flat-beds and that we may not be able to access all areas of a garment or item. We can't always get sleeves, pants legs or pockets. For some items/locations, we may be able to do simple embroideries like monograms but no logos or infill.